It's only been a week and a half since our last update, but hot damn! Adventures have been around every corner, and a lot has happened to us... There's also lot about food in this post, but if you know me and Emerson, there's a lot about food in our bike tour.
The cypress swamps have replaced the cotton fields, the sugarcane replaces the soy beans; the sun sets a little earlier everyday, and we have watched the moon wax, become full, and wane again. We moo at the cows, cluck at the chickens, enjoy the live oaks, cicadas, crickets, and take in the intense heat of southern Mississippi and Louisiana. We visited the birthplace of THE KING, Elvis Presley, in Tupelo, MS, where we ceremoniously ate peanut butter + banana sandwiches, and paid our respects. After our first century, we met four other cyclists going the same route we are, down to New Orleans and over to California They took us in, we took them in, and before you know it we are traveling six deep for a few days. It was basically a rolling party the next few days on the trace, and helmets just happened to be required.
We pulled into beautiful Natchez, MS, with a torrential afternoon thunderstorm, watched the bright pink sunset and took in the breathtaking views of the river. The stench that later ensued from the motel room we all shared was almost of unbelievable levels.
On the way from Natchez to New Orleans we explored some back roads, some gravel roads, and some too-much-traffic roads. We also explored Big Mama's biscuits n gravy, Pig Out Inn BBQ, and made some of our own "camp gourmet" food including deer burgers and salmon + cheese grits. We've camped without a tent behind a church, behind a police station with permission from a mayor, and in sugar cane fields. It's harvesting season so we awoke in the middle of the night with an 18 wheeler loading up a trailer full of cane about 30 feet from us. We hoped it wouldn't come any closer and we could stay hidden in the reeds. Success was ours, until the rhythmic mooing of cows across the levee kept us up half the night. mooo mooo mooo. Uggghhhhhh.
|Chicken with liederhosen.|
We've been in NOLA less than 48 hours, but those hours have included doing our atrocious-smelling laundry, the French Quarter, cajun food, a drag show, a saints game at a bar (where they had free jello shots every time the Saints get a touchdown...um, not that good), Beignets at Cafe Dumonde, a BBQ + Blues Festival, street jazz, Audobon Park, a pizza pickup by bike, Bourbon St, and riding around getting our bearings. This city is amazing, but sometimes it makes no rhym or reason as to layout or traffic. We are getting the hang of it though, and having a blast.
Our legs are sore, our minds are clear. Our hearts are happy and the road is good.
Fleur-de-Lis, Fun, and Fenders to you,
Hollie and Emerson